In Salzburg, Austria last spring, I skipped around the fountain outside Mirabell Palace. Others did too. Some 60 years earlier, Maria and...
Tourists trickle down into the bowels of Belgrade’s monumental fortress, attracted by banners promising a “MEDIEVAL TORTURE MUSEUM.” A $5 entrance fee...
As a lump of damp clay spins frantically on the potter’s wheel, I tentatively ease my fingers around it, hoping it will...