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25 of the best hotels, B&Bs and chateaux in France | France holidays

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COUNTRY

Château les Carrasses, Languedoc

Surrounded by vineyards in the heart of the Languedoc, the turreted Château les Carrasses has all the ingredients for a relaxing getaway. Its studio rooms and apartments sleep two to four; the self-catering villas up to eight. The infinity pool, mini-farm and kids’ club make it ideal for families, and there are complimentary mountain bikes, tennis courts, pétanque, yoga classes and a spa. The on-site restaurant, L’Orta, relaunches this year with farm-to-fork menus and a sustainability ethos.
Room-only doubles from €169, lescarrasses.com

Hôtel les Prés, Normandy

This chic new hotel in the Perche region, a favourite weekend bolthole for Parisians, is set in a peaceful valley near the town of Montagne-au-Perche. Its owners, Stéphane Renaud and Éric Brossard, have restored this 18th-century hunting lodge with impeccable style. Its nine rooms feature wooden beams, polished floorboards and curated art – all providing inspiration for shopping in the brocante and antiques shops for which the Perche is known. Be sure to book a table at their restaurant – Stéphane is an architect turned chef who creates delightful menus from seasonal produce.
Room-only doubles from €150, hotellespres.com

Château de Montcaud, Occitanie

Photograph: Christian Kerber

The sophisticated Château de Montcaud enjoys a fantastic location that brings it within reach of the villages and vineyards of the Luberon, historic Avignon and the Roman sites at Nîmes. However, the challenge will be to tear yourself away to see it all, with a pool, two excellent restaurants and expansive grounds to explore. Bedrooms are decorated in a refined yet simple style, each with a vibrant silk panel as a nod to the chateau’s original silk merchant owner.
Room-only doubles from €195, chateaudemontcaud.com

Le Manoir Caché, Brittany

Photograph: Sawdays

Equidistant from the north and south coasts of Brittany (each around an hour’s drive away), Le Manoir Caché is a wonderfully welcoming chambres d’hôte set in the quiet village of Merdrignac. Host Anoushka Lewis has renovated the elegant maison, which dates from the 18th and 19th centuries, with vivid prints and upcycled furniture. Her creative attention to detail makes the decor a joy to admire, while her breakfast is a feast. There are three double bedrooms (one can be made a twin), so it’s ideal for couples or families. There is much to explore nearby, including the Lac de Trémelin, which has a high ropes course and a beach if the coast seems too far.
B&B doubles from €80, sawdays.co.uk

Château de Montaupin, Pays de la Loire

Le Mans, and the area around it, makes for a great stopover when driving from the northern ferry ports to the south of France, and there’s reason to linger even longer at Château de Montaupin. Owners Fady and Cynthia have renovated this beautiful 18th-century chateau as a B&B and created five spacious bedrooms that are perfect for families, sleeping between three and five. There’s a swimming pool in the grounds and Cynthia’s tables d’hote show off her superb cooking, which uses vegetables grown in the garden. Le Mans is more than its racing circuit, with a medieval old town to explore, while there is a swimming lake nearby.
B&B triple room from €180, chateau-de-montaupin.com

Hôtel Sodade, Auvergne

It’s a wonder the little town of Chaudes-Aigues isn’t better known, as its hot springs are the hottest in Europe. There are 32 springs in total, but the easiest to find are the two that steam out of water fountains in a quiet back street and are naturally 65C and 82C. The town also has a spa centre and geothermal museum, while food-lovers will be spoiled at Sodade, where dishes showcase the exceptional produce from the volcanic terroir of the Cantal. The restaurant is part of Hôtel Sodade, where the quiet, luxurious rooms blend natural materials with stylish modern design.
Room-only doubles from €100, sergevieira.com

Les Chambres d’Aumont, Picardy

Photograph: Sawdays

There isn’t that much to see and do in this area of Picardy but this is precisely the reason to go; the peacefulness that pervades at Les Chambres d’Aumont invites you to switch off completely. The four huge rooms (doubles and one family room for four) are set in a former stable block with exposed red brick and wood beams, along with rattan carpets and crisp white bed linen. The surrounding countryside is ideal for bike rides or walks through the wheat fields, and if you do need some civilisation, the fantastic city of Amiens is half an hour’s drive away.
B&B doubles from €105, sawdays.co.uk

MOUNTAINS

Hôtel Arraya, Pays Basque

Photograph: Jean-Philippe Juen/Sawdays

Just a half-hour drive from Saint-Jean-de-Luz in France’s Basque Country, the tiny village of Sare punches far above its weight in terms of attractions. Not only is it close to the rack railway that goes up to the area’s highest peak, La Rhune, it has caves to visit and myriad restaurants. One of them is set in the delightful Hôtel Arraya, where chef Charlotte Bertrand’s menu blends Basque produce and global influences. The hotel is set in a 16th-century house and has 16 elegant rooms decorated in classic toiles and checks (two suites sleep up to four). In the back garden there’s a small swimming pool.
Room-only doubles from €130, sawdays.co.uk

Le Coeur des Neiges, Haute-Savoie

Photograph: Camille Froment

With its red shutters and carved wooden balconies, the pretty Cœur des Neiges dates from 1901 and is ideal for skiers after a day in the mountains. Its 15 rooms range from bijou, for one or two, to big enough for four. The cosy decor blends the natural wood of the chalet with modern touches. Post-piste aches can be relieved with a massage or a spell in the steam room, or a hot chocolate by the crackling fire in the lounge. The hotel is within easy reach of the Evasion Mont-Blanc ski area and the TGV station at Fayet, making it accessible by train via Paris.
Room-only doubles from €130, hotelcoeurdesneiges.com

Chez Marie, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

In winter, the village of Pailherols in the Auvergne is loved for its cross-country ski trails, but after the snow has melted it is ideal for hiking on the flower-filled plateaux and volcanic peaks of the Cantal. Chez Marie has spacious rooms with ski-chalet-inspired decor. There is a superb restaurant on site, with the eponymous Marie as chef, while her husband Vincent is an expert on wines from the volcanic terroir. They are friendly hosts who have thought of everything: on Marie’s nights off, you can order pre-made meals in parfait jars that can be reheated in the rooms’ kitchenettes.
Room-only doubles from €82, hotel-chezmarie.com

Le Boutik, Annecy, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

Photograph: Christophe Dugied

The town of Annecy has won many a heart for its mountain views, lakeside setting and the emerald River Thiou that runs through the old town. Just a short walk away, Le Boutik will also win over romantics. Each of its 12 tastefully themed rooms (and one garden cabin) sleep two or three. Room eight, named Moody Blue, sports a mid-century vibe, with Orla Kiely prints and mountain-inspired wall art. Room one, Nordik Pink, is done in gentle pinks and greys with a nod to Scandi style. Breakfast is served in the on-site cafe.
Room-only doubles from €175, leboutikhotel.com

La Rochette, Labaroche, Grand Est

The Vosges mountains, which separate Alsace from its neighbouring region Lorraine, is hiking and cycling country, with numerous forest trails. This family-run hotel makes an ideal base for exploring and has an excellent restaurant run by chef Laurence Lanoix and his son Benjamin, who use seasonal, local produce. The 20 rooms range from cosy singles and doubles to suites sleeping up to four; all are decorated in contemporary style with splashes of mustard yellow and forest green. There is also a spa with wooden hot tubs, a sauna and steam room.
Room-only doubles from €119, larochette-hotel.fr

Le Grand Hôtel, Pyrenees

Photograph: Hugo Hennequin/Studio Heure Bleue

After a hike in the Massif du Canigó in the Pays Catalans, Le Grand Hôtel, in the village of Molitg-les-Bains, offers the ultimate cure for aching limbs in its historic spa. Set around the natural thermal springs that offer water rich in sulphur, sodium and thermal plankton, “taking the waters” here is an enchanting experience thanks to the spa’s polished marble vaults, forest view and treatments such as a kaolin clay bath, which gives a feeling of weightlessness. The hotel’s 38 rooms and two suites are bright and airy, many with Juliet balconies that look out over the valley.
B&B doubles from €125, grandhotelmolitg.com

COAST

Hôtel Villa Victoria, Normandy

Set in an elegant mansion in the backstreets of Ouistreham, the Villa Victoria opened last summer and makes a great base for exploring the D-day beaches and memorials along the coast (Sword beach is a few minutes’ drive away). As it’s close to the ferry port, it is also ideal if you’re arriving late, or taking an early morning ferry home. Its eight rooms (two are suites, which can sleep three) are lavishly decorated with luxurious fabrics and wallpaper, while the hotel also offers spa treatments and has a wine bar. There is parking and a pretty garden, too.
Room-only doubles from €128, villavictoria-ouistreham.fr

Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu, Finistère, Brittany

Photograph: travellinglight/Alamy

Just down the coast from the westernmost point of mainland France, this smart hotel sits behind the striking red and white Saint-Mathieu lighthouse, which guides ships through the treacherous Iroise Sea. With a strong nautical theme, its 34 rooms feature ocean-patterned carpets and photo murals of dramatic seascapes. Food lovers will be spoiled by the Michelin-starred restaurant, while walkers can fill their lungs with sea air with hikes along the coast.
Room-only doubles from €117, pointe-saint-mathieu.com

Le Brittany & Spa, Roscoff, Brittany

Take the overnight ferry to Roscoff and you’ll wake up in one of Brittany’s most charming harbour towns, where there’s plenty to explore without the need for a car. The “exotique” botanic garden reopens in February and the Île de Batz is a 10-minute foot ferry ride away and makes for an ideal day’s exploring by bike. Its blond sandy beaches are sublime. Le Brittany has a harbour view from its sea-view rooms, while its smaller rooms are just a few steps from the indoor pool and spa.
Room-only doubles from €141, hotel-brittany.com

Hôtel de Londres, Menton, Provence

Early spring is the ideal time to visit the Côte d’Azur, especially Menton, where it is citrus season. The town is famous for its lemons and celebrates them at the annual Fête du Citron, a carnival of sculptures made with lemons and oranges, concerts and performances. There are several botanic gardens in and around Menton, while the alleys and ornate cemetery of the old town are a joy to explore. A 15-minute walk away is the recently renovated Hôtel de Londres, with 28 bright and cheerful rooms, where breakfast is served on the sun-trap terrace.
Room-only doubles from €75, hotel-de-londres.com

La Matelote, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais

For visitors from across the Channel, there’s a temptation to speed on through northern France after docking in Calais, but there is much to explore on the Opal Coast that runs from the Belgian border down to the Somme estuary at Le Crotoy, including many attractions in Boulogne. The 35-room Matelote hotel is opposite Nausicaá, Europe’s largest aquarium and conservation centre, with 60,000 sea creatures. It’s also a short drive to vast sandy beaches. Room decor is traditional, there’s a small indoor pool, hot tub and hammam, and the restaurant serves fish landed at the town’s harbour.
Room-only doubles from €140, la-matelote.com

Hôtel Le Royal, Bonifacio, Corsica

Near the southern tip of Corsica, the town of Bonifacio clings dramatically to its clifftop promontory and is a warren of narrow streets and stepped alleys that lead up to impressive views of the harbour and citadel. At the heart of the town, the Royal has 14 modern rooms with natural wood decor and white bed linen. Rooms sleep two to four, and there’s an aparthotel in the next-door building for those who prefer to have a kitchen. Cooking is not required, though, as the hotel’s excellent restaurant serves modern dishes using locally caught fish and vegetables from nearby producers.
Room-only doubles from €57, hotel-leroyal.com

CITY

Mama Shelter, Dijon

Photograph: Francis Amiand

The Mama Shelter group started in France in 2008 and now has 18 hotels in Europe and beyond. Its Dijon incarnation is a brilliant example of the brand’s signature kooky style, with bespoke carpet depicting Burgundy’s vineyards in the 120 bedrooms. The bountiful breakfast served in the huge bar-restaurant is the perfect set-up for a day’s sightseeing. The location makes it ideal for exploring the city on foot; it’s at the edge of the pedestrianised city centre, and a 10-minute walk from the cultural centre, La Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin.
Room-only doubles from €99, mamashelter.com

Fourvière Hôtel, Lyon

Take the funicular railway to the top of Fourvière Hill overlooking Lyon, in all its architectural and natural glory, and it’s only a short walk from there to the Fourvière Hôtel. It is set in a former convent that dates from 1854 and continues to be a haven of peace; the reception area resides in the former chapel, complete with grand altar, stained glass windows and stone arches. The hotel showcases historical figures of Lyon, each depicted on the door of one of its 75 rooms, including the Lumière brothers and the art nouveau architect Hector Guimard. In the grounds, there is a 25-metre pool and the welless centre has a hot tub, hammam and treatments. There is an on-site bistro restaurant if you don’t fancy venturing into town.
Room-only doubles from €129, fourviere-hotel.com

Hôtel Passy Eiffel, Paris

Photograph: Sawdays

A short stroll from Le Trocadéro and its incredible view of the Eiffel Tower, the three-star Passy Eiffel serves as a comfortable retreat from sightseeing. There are 49 rooms, sleeping two or three, each decorated in contemporary style, and some have a view of the iconic tower. The neighbourhood is peaceful and residential, and the nearby Passy Métro is just one stop from the Champ de Mars, a huge public park in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.
Room-only doubles from €170, sawdays.co.uk

La Maison du Lierre, Bordeaux

Tucked away in a quiet street close to Bordeaux’s Unesco-listed centre, the discreet Maison du Lierre is a brilliant find. There are 18 airy rooms that sleep one or two, each with a bijou en suite. Some rooms open out to a deck in the back garden, which is also a pleasant spot for breakfast in the warmer months. The area is good for restaurants with different global cuisines, from Irish to Lebanese, as well as the excellent “bistronomie” restaurant Zéphirine just a few minutes’ walk away.
Room-only doubles from €110, hotel-maisondulierre-bordeaux.com

Hôtel Tandem, Strasbourg

Strasbourg is one of Europe’s most eco-friendly cities, with around 600km of cycling paths. Just opposite the railway station – it’s an easy journey from Paris by train – the Hôtel Tandem is dedicated to keeping its carbon footprint low. With 70 bedrooms decorated in deep greens and dusky pinks, there are no mini-bars, just refillable glass bottles, as single-use plastic is banned throughout; and breakfast is created using only local produce (except for coffee). It’s an easy walk to the historic city centre, where you can tuck into local specialities such as tarte flambée and choucroute garnie at a traditional wine tavern.
Room-only doubles from €115, hotel-tandem.fr

Okko Hotels Lille Centre

In the centre of Lille’s shopping district, the Okko belongs to the small French chain that is designed for business professionals (city locations with co-working spaces) but which also offers a great rate for visitors. Rooms have a modern Scandinavian vibe and come with eco-friendly products and organic linen. Guests help themselves to complimentary snacks and drinks (such as pastries and coffee). The hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from Place du Général-de-Gaulle, the historic main square with Flemish architecture and friteries.
Room-only doubles from €85, okkohotels.com

Carolyn Boyd is the author of Amuse Bouche: How to Eat Your Way Around France is published by Profile Books (£18.99). To support the Guardian and the Observer order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

Article by:Source: Carolyn Boyd

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